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-^Actual IVIeasuirement-^ 



-FOR- 



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-AS PREPARED BY- 



-:- MI^S. L. DENNY. 



Copyrighted June 27, 1891, by Mrs. L. Denny, in the office of the 
Librarian of Congress. All Rights Resei"ved. 



DAVID CITY, NEB: 

TRIBUNE STEAM PRINTING HOUSE. 

1891 



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^Actual IVIeasuLrement-^ 



A •'» AS PREPARED BY- 

-:- MI^S. L. DENNY. =^ 



("SEPX4 18' 



]!opyrighted June 27, 1891, by Mrs. L. Denny, in the office of the 

Librarian of Congi-ess. All Rights Reserved. a ^^^ 



DAVID CITY. NEB; 

TRIBUNE STEAM PRINTING HOUSE. 

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^INTRODUCTION im. 



-OF THE- 



Actual IVEeeisureni^ent Systerq. 



^o^= 



To lay off patterns, and to cut, fit and make garments of every 
description, which will conform in all cases with the prevailino- 
fashion and fitting properly, is by no means an undesirable attain- 
ment. It is one that anybody of limited means will find a valuable 
and economic fraction of her domestic education; to the really poor 
such a knowledge is a necessit}', and to those of larger means an 
ability to superintend the cutting, fitting and making up of their 
own and their children's clothing, with a perfect knowledge that the 
result will be satisfactory, will, we know, in most cases, prove an 
agreeable occupation. But little can be said to recommend such 
knowledge that will not be apparent to the most careless observer- 
many in shortened circumstances have felt the absolute need of it 
and many others have but to see the ease with which such knowl- 
edge can be obtained, and with what sm plici ty the work can be done 
to reach out a waiting hand to welcome its introduction as a harbing- 
er of good into their household. 

In placing our system before the public, we claim it meets 
every demand for the cutting of ladies' and children's garments of all 
descriptions. It is adapted to all forms, whether irregular or perfect 
and is unaffected by any change of sashion; it being a system of cut- 
ting by the actual measurement of inches without the use of scale, 
or other unnecessary appendiges so oftei-\ used in other systems; the 



very simpliciiy of it, making it far superior to other systems and 
chart, and making it a genuine Taylor System in reality as well as 
name. 

After years of practicing the old methods and systems of dress- 
cutting, we are satisfied we have perfected a system that will stand 
all criticism; the mere fact of the measurements taken showing how 
perfect it must be. But however perfect a system may be, it can 
never produce successful results unless perfect measures are taken; 
therefore it is very essential that we take accurate measures. 

In this particular, more than any other branch of dress-making, 
the exercise of good judgement being a leading part, the varying 
dimensions of the human form, the character of the material to be 
used and the purpose to which the garment is to be adopted, must 
all be considered and should enter into the calculation of the one who 
is to apply the tape line. Unless this is done, success cannot be ex- 
pected with any system of cutting however perfect it may be. 

The Perfection Taylor System is simply combining the use of 
combination curve and square with the sliding guage, measures and 
the instructions for its diagram. 

The methot of drafting being the result of long study and prac- 
tice and are fully protected by copyright, and cannctt be infringed 
upon violation of the law. 

In the introduction of this system, I ask no one to lay aside her 
former method unless fully satisfied that this is better and that the 
change will prove a benefit. 

I am readv at all times with new diagrams, in changes of fash- 
ion, in regard to sleeves, jackets, etc., and will be pleased to answer 
all inquiry and remove all objections that may arise in the minds of 
any investigators of this system; therefore carefully read the general 
directions on the following pages and comend them to your careful 
attention. Yours Respectfully, 

MRS. L. DENNY. 




BLADE 



Application of 



Measurements. 



Application of IVT e as urc merits. 



This plate is designed to show the method applying the meas- 
ures when taken as illustrated and directed on diagrams No. 1 and 2, 
and correct measures are here very important if successful results are 
obtained 

The measures selected tor this application are as follows: 

1. Under Arm. — Set short arm of square on hips at lower 
edge of l)elt with long arm running up t(»a('hing \y\ck shoulder; then 
slide guage up until it t()uc:he^ (;l(>se to rhef.-,l)ody, with same adjust- 
ment of square set at back and maik at underarm measure by plac- 
ing a pin at that point. 

2. To Neck. — With square adjusted as f)r vnder arm measure, 
(place end of tape line in the slot of guage) with long arm touching 
at front shoulder, ;ind guage cli)>e no under ;trm, hold firmly in posi- 
tion and bring cape up from G lo A, the middle of neck in back. 

3. Over Shoulder Test Measure. — From G over shoulder to C, 
the height of under arm measure. 

4. Blade. — With square in same position, bring tape under 
arm from G to C the middle of back. 

5. Hip Dart. — For size of hip dart; with square in a horizon- 
tal position, place the end of long arm on hip at belt and slide guage 
close up to hip and ascertain size by the hip dart scale. 

6. Length of Back. — Is obtained by applying measure from 
promininent bone in l)ack of neck to lower edge of belt. Should 
waist coniinue below add an extension of its amount; thus to belt 15 
inches, extension fin equal 15 plus fin. 

7. Neck.— Measure around neck just above colar with 1 inch 
added. 

8. Arm Eye. — With measure drawn tight up over shoulder 
and 1 inch added. 



6 

9. Bust. — Apply measure as tight as required over full part 
and up over blade in back. 

10. Hips. — As tight as required around hips 5 inches below 
waist. 

11. Width of Back. — Apply measure from shoulder point to 
shoulder point. 

12. Length of Front. — Apply measure from hollow in neck to 
bottom of belt. Should waist extend below, add as in back. 

13. Width of Chest. — Apply measure from arm eye to arm eye. 

14. Height of Darts. — Measure from belt up to the required 
height. 

SLEEVE MEASURES, 

1. To Elbow. — With arms drawn forward apply measure from 
elbow to elbow using half of measure. 

2. Inside Elbow. — Apply measure from arm eye on inside to 
elbow, with measure drawn tight. 

3. To Wrist. — From elbow to wrist. 

4. Upper Arm. — Around arm 2 inches below arm eye. 

5. Elbow. — Around arm at elbow with arm bent. 

5. Wrist. — Around hnnd over thumb with measure tight. 

1. Front Skirt. — Apply measure from bottom of belt to the 
required length at bottom. 

2. Front to Floor. — Apply from belt to floor. 

3. Side to Floor. — Apply from side to floor. 

4. Back to Floor. — Apply from edge of belt at back to floor. 
See measures in measure book, using half measure where half 

is required. 



Draft for a Basque 

. BY THE 

Actxial lyLeasLircment Systcrri. 

^. : 3> o ^ : •»- 

Showing location of 7 :it 4 and giving- directions and dotted out 
line for a French dart. 

1. Draw line from center of back, placing A at right end and 
mard from A to D the natural waist length. 

2. From D. to E is 8 inciies full length to bottom. 

3. C is the under arm length from D to A. 

4. B is ^ of arm eye measure from C to A. 

5. Square out from A, B, D and E. 

6. From A to 1 is ^ of neck measure. 

7. From B to 2 is width of back. 

8. From C to 3 is width of back, from C to G is blade meas- 
ure and from C to H is bust with J inch added. 

9. From D to 4 is same as C to 3 and D to J same as C to G 
and D to K is bust measure with the added J inch. 

10. Square up from 3 and G, and down from H to E line. 
Square up ^ inch above first 1 and place second 1. 

11. Draw line from second 1 to 2 for shoulder. 

12. Mark 5 half the distance between 2 and G. 

13. Draw line from first 1 through 5 aud G line. For very 
fleshy forms, second 1 through 5 and G line. 

11. Mark L. ^ the distance from C to A and draw line by 

this line square out from G to M the front shoulder measure to 
neck. 



8 ^ 

15. Mark N down from M ^ of neck and from M to O is J 
of neck. 

16. Square out from O to P ^ of ueok and square out from N 
J inch. 

17. Apply measure from end of ^ inch line at N to 2 and place 
* at shoulder measure ^ inch less than back shoulder measure. 

18. Shape arm eye half on line between 2 and 3, I inch below 
line C and IJ inches above G and up to shoulder * and end of arm 
eye measure. 

19. Shape the shoulder from end of arm eye line to end of ^ inch 
line at M. 

20. Shape the back of neck from A to second 1. 

21. Shape the front of neck from M to end of J inch line at N 
and apply measure from A to second 1, and from end of front shoul- 
der to P and dot at neck measure. 

. 22. Shape the front from end of neck measure out to H, 

23. Mark T at length of waist in front with the extension if 
required. 

24. From D to S is added waisf in back, draw line fi-nm S to 
half of lino D and from half to R. 

25. Mark T | inch to left of S on added waist line from A to 
toT. 

26. Mark U 1^ inches to left of T. 

27. Mark 6 ^ of back to right of 3, and shape from U u[) to 6 
and up ^ inch above arm eye line, hitlf between 2 and 3 and shape 
from end of U line down to arm eye line. 

28. Mark V half the distance between T and 4, and shape 
from 6 to V. 

29. Mark W J inch to right of 4 and shajjc | inch to left of 3 
and ^ inch above arm eye hue, and shape from end of line down to 
arm eye line. 

30. One half the distance between J and R mark X, dot f in. 
each side of X for inside line of darts allow, the difference between 
bust aud waist measure, less the amount of spaces between L and 4 
placing half the amount each side of X. 

ol. Dot at heio:ht of front dart from center and h inch higher 



i 



' 9 

and ^ inch back of center for back dart, shape from the top to inside 
and outside dots on the waist line. 

32. Dot straight down from center of front dart on E line, dot 
^ inch back of center on Eline for back dart, draw lines from in- 
side and outside lines to bottom. 

33. Apply measure from W to V and T and from R across 
darts omitting spaces and locate 7 at waist measure. 

34. Mark 8 J the distance between 7 and back line of darts and 
square up from 8 to arm eye line and from 7 up to end of W line. 

35. Mark Z 4 inches below D and square out to H line. 

36. Draw line from T to E and mark 10, twice the distance 
of T to U from A out on E line, draw line from U to 10 and from 
V to 10. 

37. Mark corresponding W, 7 and 8 on Z line. 

38. Curve from 8 on waist IJ inches to right of 8 on Z line 
through to E line. 

39. Curve from 8 on waist line 1 inch to left of 8 on Z line 
through to E line. 

40. Curve from 7 on waist linel^ inches to right of 7 on Z line 
through to E line. 

41. Curve from W 1 inch to left of W on Z line through to E 
line. Apply hip measure on Z line omitting spaces and add or reduce 
at 7, 8 and W as measure requires. 

42. Apply test measure on dotted Jine over the shoulder to C 
and add or reduce at front shoulder as may be required. 

43. In tracing out the linings for polinaise and princis dresses 
separate under arm dart, the amount of hip dart measure at waist 
line. 

44 To draft the French dart, which should be used for all 
large busts, draft the same as diagram No. 1 all through; then draw 
line from top of back dart out to J and from J to E line a corres- 
ponding distance from back dart line, take off the same amount back 
of under arm dart line with a corresponding distance from line to E 
line. (See dotted lines in diagram.) 

45 To make drafts for children, draft the same as diagram No. 
1 leaving out the darts, otherwise using the measures same as for 
grown persons. 

This system being an actual measurement system no seams are 
allowed, the tracing being the sewing line. 



Diagram No. 2. 



Sliowiug the draft for a jacket with one dart, and showing the 
location of 7 both to right and left of 4, with directions for polinaise 
and princis dresses, the dotted lines in diagram showing the changes 
of dart and hip seams. 

1. Proceed same as No. 1. until the location of 7 occurs. Ap- 
ply waist measure same as No, 1, locate 7 and 8. Should 7 come to 
right of 4, apply the amount from 4 to 7 each side of 8 and dot at 
arm eve, driivv lines from dots up to dois at arm eye. 

2. Locate corresponding 7 and 8 on Z line and dot correspond- 
ing dots on Z line curve from right dot on IJ inches: to right of 
right dot on Z line. 

3. Curve from left dot on waist line 1 inch to left of left dot 
on Z line to E line, etc., etc., at 7 and W. 

4. Should the location of 7 come to the left of 4, apply the 
difference from 4 to 7 each side of 8 and dot, square up and dot, 
draw line from upper dots to dots on waist line. 

5. Dot corresponding dots on Z line and curve from left dot 1^ 
inches to )ight of left dot on Z line to E line. 

6. Curve from right dot on waist line 1 inch to left of right 
dot on Z line to E line etc., etc., at 7 and W. 

7. For Jacket with one dart proceed same as No. 1, until loca- 
tion of darts; locate X and apply f of amount for darts each side of 
X; sqnnre up from X and dot, draw line from dot for outside line of 
darts; square down and draw outside lines down. 



Diagram for a Sleeve 



Actiaal INZLeasureni^ent Systerq. 



^o^ 



1. Draw line from A to F for inside of sleeve. 

2. From A. to C is J of arm eye; to B is J to C. 

3. From C to D is inside elbow measure, and from C to E is 
inside to wrist; from E to F is 3 inches. 

4. Square in from A B C D and F. 

5. From A to 1 is J of arm eye; A to 2 is f of half. 

6. From B to 3 is same as 1, and B to 4 same as 2, and to 5, 
^ of arm eye. 

7. From C to 6 is ^ of half armeye. 

8. From D to 7 is 1| inches; 7 to 8 is ^ of elbow measure; 7 
to 9 is f of elbow; square out 1 inch from E and mark H. 

9. From F to 10 is 6 or f of wrist measure. 

10. Draw line from H to 10 and mark J K and L at 2, 4 and 

11. Square down from 1 to D line and up from 4 to 2. 

12. Apply sleeve measure less the width of back, from line B 
between 4 and 3, through line D, between 8 and 9 and mark M at 
elbow measure. 

13. Draw line from 7 to M and work 7, 8 and 9 corresponding 
to the upper line. 

14. Slope from C to 6 and up to 4. 

15. Slope from C to 5 and up half between 4 and 2, and 
down to 3, apply from 4 to C up to 5 and 3 on curve line for arm 
eye measure with 1 inch added. 



12 

16. Slope from C to 7 2 and in one half inches at H and slope 
from 2 inches above 7, finches in at 7 and | inches out at J. 

17. From C on under half of sleeve, the amount from G to end 
of W line; the under half of arm &ye; mark 11. 

18. Square out to right from 11; apply measure from 11 to 4, 
and add the form 3 and curve to 11 line. 

19. Curve under half of sleeve from 11 to 8, and J inches at 
K; 2 inches below C line apply measure across under half of sleeve, 
and across upper half and dot at upper arm measure, and curve from 
end of 3 line to dot, and through 9, 2 and in J inch at L, add or re- 
duce at K and L. See dotted line in diagram for high top sleeve; 
coat sleeve, etc. 

For French sleeve reduce under half of sleeve ^ and add to 
upper, placing the fullness at M of the elbow. 

Place front seam of sleeve at the crossing of arm eye line, by line 
running through 5 and G lines: place line ruimiug up from 2 at * 
on shoulder. 
DIAGRAM FOR DOLMAN AND CIRCULAR WRAPS, 

1. In drafting a dolmon an extra measure is required. Meas- 
ure from G over the arm to C in middle of back. Then proceed 
same as a basque, leaving out 7 and W, and 8 also, unless an under- 
arm dart is required. 

2. Draft same as No. 1 using only one dart as in No. 2. If 
no darts are required leave out all the lines back to V. 

3. Curve in ^in. at 2 on shoulder line and down to 6, and V 
down two inches to left often. 

4. Curve in ^ inch at front shoulder and 1 inch to left of G; 
curve out from G to top of dart for long sleeve out to H line. 

5. Curve from 2 inches above G on curve line to V line, f the 
distance from V to arm eye and then draw curve line from top of 
dart back to the crossing of curve line on V line. See dotted lines 
in diagram. 

6. Cut out the back on curve line and place front on left edge 
of paper. Place back shoulder point to front shoulder point and 
bring back up even with top edge of paper 

7. Extend C and D out to 3 and 4; extend line E out 6 inches, 
draw from 4 to end of E line. 



13 

8. Curve from 4 to 3 and up to 1 inch below 2 and *; 1| 
inches out at G. and 1 inch above top of dart; curve from top of dart 
to end of E line; apply measure from G to C omitting space between 
3 and 6; add 2 inches for ease and add or reduce at 3 and 4 as may 
be required. 

9. For circular wrap use the measure entirely; around the 
shoulder draft the upper part of waist down to waist line; separate 
the draft between shoulder points, place front on left edge of paper, 
place shoulder points to gether; apply measure from H to and move 
back to right or left as measure requires, adding 2 inches for ease; 
extend front and back line to length required. Use the curve on 
square for all curve lines. 

DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING SKIRT BY THE /\CTU/0\L 
ME/\SUREMENT SYSTEM. 

1. Draw line from A to C the length to floor. 

2. From A to B is 5 inches. 

3. Square out from A, B and C. 

4. From B to 2 is 1-5 of hip measure. ' 

5. From C. to 3 is same as B to 2 and 1 inch added. 

6. From A to 1, 1^ inches less than B to 2. 

7. Draw line from 2 to 3 and curve from 2 to 1. Square up 
from 1, the difference between the front and side skirt measure and 
curve from 1 to A. 

8. Draw line the length of front for side gore, and apply slant- 
ing side of front at line and square out at A, B and C. 

9. From B to second 2 is hip less 2 inches. 

10. From C to second 3 is hip with 10 inches added. 

11. From A to second 1 is hip less i^ inches 

12. Draw line from second 2 to 3 and curve from 2 to 1. 

13. Apply side skirt measure from 1 to second 3 and dot, and 
curve from dot to first 3. 

14. Apply side skirt measure up side gore from bottom and dot; 
apply back measure up slanting edge of side gore and dot, and curve 
from side dot to back dot and first 1 line. 

15. Curve 1^ inches in at top and front of side gore to hip line. 

16. Take up darts in front and side gore to waist measure less 
2 inches. 



14 _____^_ 

17. Draw line from A to C for length of back and square out 
f of front at top and bottom, allow a margin at top of 1 inch, allow 
1 inch for seams and take off at bottom the required length. 

For skirt with a train add at side gore and back the required 
amount. Add at top at side and back for the extra length required 
for pad or bustle. 

RULES F0[^ BASTING WAISTS, 

In placing the linings on the dness goods of polinaise and 
princis dresses; be sure that the threads in goods and lining run par- 
allel. And in waists the under arm piece as much on a bias as the 
part back of the darts on the fronts. 

Do not put poor help at basting. This of all work should be 
carefully done. A dress well cut and basted is considered half made, 

The dressmaker should use her skill in making up a deficient 
figures; much padding is sometimes required and should be arranged 
so as to look perfectly natural. An inside belt should be fastened at 
the back, and the under arm seams so as to hold the waist firmly in 
position and keep it from twisting and working up in the back. 

To prevent wrinkles around arm eye hold the lining a little 
around G and 3 or 4 inches down from G to waist line. Always 
smooth and baste down the goods on the top side of lining first, then 
turn over and baste all around the tracings. 

Pin all the cross tracing at waist line and top except the front 
darts, baste them from the top doMn after cutting them o})en, hold in 
all fullness, baste from waist to bottom smoothly. Pin cross tracing 
in sleeves and put fullness in back seam around at elbow. 

The French dressmaker uses the French dart for all figures. It 
is used very much for fleshy persons. It cannot be used for an ex- 
tended garment on account of the fullness it briugs below the darts. 

New Diagrams will be furnished to all those wishing them, that 
use the Perfection System, giving them the advantage in change of 
fashion. You should write us at least once a month for diagrams and 
these should be kept for reference. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 061 946 2 ^ 



